Loja - Southern Ecuador's hidden gem

Just 4 hours travel south of Cuenca is Loja, southern Ecuador's hidden gem of nostalgic charm. Established in 1548 it is one of Ecuador's oldest cities.

 

It has often been described as a smaller and warmer version of Cuenca. We found it to be full of natural beauty, and warm hospitality, while its tourist services are somewhat limited.



A $ 5 dollar city highlights tour on a double-decker bus is an excellent way to get a good overview of the city – when on the upper deck just watch out for numerous low hanging wires !

Surprisingly it was the first city in Ecuador to have electricity in 1897, provided by a hydro-electric dam. It also lays claim to be the safest city in Ecuador.

 

While protecting its heritage, culture, and environment it continues to be a leader with

 

Ecuador's first 11 wind turbines in Parque Eolica Villonaco, commissioned in January 2013, now provide 59GWh energy annually representing 23.4 % of the province of Loja, Zamora, & Chinchipe's needs.

 

The renewable electrical wind power generation reduces atmospheric emissions, represents 254 jobs, and has an excellent interpretation centre for visitors.



The urban center lies in the bottom of the Cuxibamba Valley at 6,750 ft its surrounding green slopes are fringed with the country's main coffee plantations, and several excellent viewpoints for city views.

 




With a population of about 182,000 it is the capital of the

 

province of Loja, holding a rich tradition in the arts & music it is considered the music capital of Ecuador.

 

The city comes alive with a variety of music, cafes, bars, and salsa clubs providing nightly activity, and bands often perform in public plazas. Their music conservatory has produced some of the most acclaimed musicians in Ecuador.

Two rivers, the Zamora & Malacatos, flow in north / south channels through the city, and are framed by walkways and some green lineal park.



We lived in Bahia de Caraquez, the "self proclaimed eco-city" for six years, where basic recycling programs were neither successful nor a community priority. Ironically we now discover Loja was officially declared Ecuador's " Ciudad Ecologica" and has a sophisticated and very successful recycling program, and a strong commitment to environmental protection that has won International awards and is now the example for copying by other cities in Ecuador.

 

The sanitation vehicles play a pleasing, catching musical melody to alert citizens to bring out their recycling & waste.

Main attractions of Loja include :

The iconic landmark city gates attraction modeled after the city's 1571 Coat of Arms. The Spanish castle like structure forms the northern gateway into the city. 

 

At the merging of the two rivers the charming entrance gate sets the stage for Loja's friendly residents, clean streets, and charm. On the north side are several bustling marketplaces serving fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, flowers, and artisan crafts. 

 

Climb the castle towers for a 360 degree panoramic view of the city. It houses a small museum, several small art galleries, and a cafe. Admission is free and the hospitality wonderful. Its character is handsomely illuminated in the evening providing a second photo opportunity.

Massive tile murals adorn the city, including the frescoes of Bolivar & Sucre greeting visitors passing through the city entry gate.




 

The well appointed main civic plaza reflects Spanish architecture with the main Cathedral which houses the Virgin of Cisne,

 

Provincial and Municipal government buildings, and Central Bank Museum surrounding it.




 

Beautiful churches of San Sebastion,




Santo Domingo, San Francisco, and San Augustin filled with precious art.

Independence Monument a 32 metre clock tower in Plaza San Sebastian.

Behind Plaza San Sebastion is a block long section of Lourdes Street picturesquely showcasing a narrow cobblestone antique alleyway flanked with colourful well preserved & restored colonial buildings with balconies and flowers, artesanal galleries, and cafes.





Loja has several museums, two of Ecuador's major Universities, and the oldest high school in Ecuador. The Universidad Técnica Particular de Loja has three international campuses located in New York (USA), Madrid (Spain), and Rome (Italy).



Parque Recreacional Jipiro's over ten hectares of greenspace along the river provides a beautiful theme park oasis featuring something for everyone.

 

It is very unique providing a multi-cultural world tour with a colourful assortment of scaled models of world famous monuments in natural surroundings.



Replicas of the Eiffel Tower, a medieval castle, Buddhist shrine, St Basil's Cathedral, Big Ben, Japanese pagoda, Hansel & Gretle cottage, & Incan pyramids provide children's playgrounds and are enjoyable for the young-at-heart.

 

A pretty lake with beautiful swans, ducks, geese, and flamingos, and river channels offer a relaxing pedal boat experience.
 

Even though the attractions are not new, and require a little paint or TLC it is still enjoyable. Admission is now free. An extensive network of trails for walking, hiking, jogging, cycling, or rollerblading alongside grazing sheep, cows, horses, and chickens.

 

Sporting facilities for soccer, outdoor exercise gyms, indoor swimming pool, basketball & volleyball courts, tennis, frisbee, athletics, aerobics, yoga, and a large skateboard & BMX park with a full pipe. Other activities include horseback rentals, bicycle rentals, flying kites, picnicking, playgrounds, people watching, strolling in the sun, reading under a big shade tree.



Adjacent to Jipiro is La Banda Park on the shores of the Rio Zamora. A huge greenspace with a public carting race track, riding trails, an orchid nursery, and the Loja zoo.





Across from University Park is the Jardin Botanico, the oldest in Ecuador created in 1949, and among the highest altitude in the world. A seven hectare living laboratory with over 800 native and exotic species.

 

Loja's airport service is about 32 km away in the Catamayo Valley.

Highlights of the region :

Just 10 miles south is the protected diversity of the massive cloud-forest reserve Podocarpus National Park which is an extraordinary park ranging from chilly highland páramo, gigantic coniferous forests of Podocarpus trees, to jungle.

 

Home to over 800 different bird species, and one of the last major habitats for the spectacled bear.



Travelling south to Vilcabamba, is Mandango a sacred Incan hill shaped like a sleeping Incan.



Vilcabamba, an hour away is the famous sacred valley of longevity, and has vacation properties for the wealthy Lojano's.

History

Founded in 1548 by field marshal Alonso de Mercadillo it was named after his hometown Loja, Spain. Originally located 35 km east in the Catamayo canyon it was relocated to its present location due to a devastating earthquake, and problems with malaria. The primary reasons for its establishment was to provide fortification for the nearby gold rich region of Zaruma, and provide a departure point to the Amazon to search for the mystic town of El Dorado.




Annual Loja Festivals & Events

• January 23 – festival of a sea of yellow flowering Guayacans
• May 30 - August 15 - Pilgrimage of the Virgin of El Cisne - a 43 mile religious mountainous pilgrimage made by thousands to transport the Virgin Mary statue to Loja
• June 25 - Foundation of Loja Province
• September 1–15 - Ecuador-Peru Border Integration Fair
• November 1 - Return of the Virgin of Cisne to the town of El Cisne
• November 18 - Independence of Loja
• December 8 - Foundation of Loja
  

"Making Chocolate" - transforming the cacao cob's bitter bean into delicious chocolate

As we write this article, our inspiration is enhanced with the rich aromas  from our pot of  chocolate, personally harvested and hand processed, currently simmering on our stove.  For over half a century we knew very little about chocolate other than enjoying the taste of the final product - most often milk chocolate candy.  We are not going to be talking about common milk chocolate candy. Real high quality chocolate with a cocoa content higher than 80% contains very little sugar, and is an anti-oxidant-rich health food, complementing a glass of fine red wine. 

 

Appendix I lists 13 health reasons we should consume more dark chocolate. Raw chocolate is subjected to minimal heat during processing. Having now personally grown two trees, harvested the cocoa cob from the trees, undertaken the many processing steps to reach chocolate we have a new recognition & incredible appreciation for the amount of work involved.  

 
     

Cacao trees are grown within a tropical belt 10 degrees of the equator. This cacao plantation is interplanted with banana trees. The cacao tree is the shorter tree above, averaging between ten and thirty feet on a plantation and twice that tall growing wild in the amazon rainforest. Immature cacao pods have a variety of colors but most often are green, red, or purple. 

 

Each tree will produce 30 to 40 pods per year. They take six months to mature and their color changes towards yellow or orange when ready for harvesting. A typical pod contains 20 to 50 beans and it takes about 400 beans to make one pound of chocolate. Opening the pod we remove the beans which are covered in a white fleshy pulp which has a delicious, delicate fruity flavour. You can clean the beans of this white sticky substance in your mouth, or leave it to ferment with the bean. Commercially the beans are left in large heaps to ferment for a week or two. They must then be dried in the sun for another 5 to 15 days. When traveling the coastal regions you will often see beans drying along the roadside or on cement patios nearby.   





Once dried the cacao beans are now ready for roasting. This can be done by either placing them on an oven tray at a temperature of about 180 degrees Celsius for 30 to 45 minutes until they start to crack, or in a pot stirring constantly over a flame. We have used both methods and found the flame's more intense heat cracked the beans better making the winnowing process  easier. 

 

You must be careful not to burn the beans.  After roasting, the husks must be removed from the outside leaving the nib, this is called winnowing.  This is a very manual and time consuming process.  We now take the nibs and grind them into a liquid or chocolate liquor. The smooth, bitter-tasting paste extracted from the beans is the key ingredient in making chocolate.
   
The chocolate liquor is blended with cocoa butter, and other ingredients, simmered and stirred for several hours.  The resulting mixture is tempered then poured into a molding tray and cooled to harden and form a bar of highly pure chocolate.  100 % chocolate is still bitter and contains no sugar.  The lower the % of chocolate the more sugar has been used.  

 

Your slabs of pure chocolate are now ready to transform into a hot chocolate drink, adding fruit or nuts, and flavours for making traditional chocolates, making a tropical fruit fondue, using in baking brownies etc, or simply enjoyed with a glass of red wine. Appendix II includes several recipes for your enjoyment.

 


Top Quality & Complex Flavours  of Ecuadorian Cacao

Chocolate tasters say the aroma of Ecuador's cacao is more complex because Arriba beans vary hugely in taste and size according to the area in which they are grown. Ecuadorean chocolate is known for its floral characteristics, some beans taste more like fruits, while others have a nutty flavour. Much like wine, chocolate reflects the flavour notes of the region where the cocoa beans are grown, and how they are dried and fermented.



 
Sarah Jane Evans, a leading UK food author and founding member of the Academy of Chocolate, in her book Chocolate Unwrapped, says that the characteristic of Ecuador's fine cocoa is "a floral profile with blackcurrants and spice."

Santiago Peralta, founder of Pacari in 2002, a successful Ecuadorean brand of fine organic  chocolate. says "each bean has a special, different flavour."   Mr Peralta says the quality of Ecuador's chocolate is due to the country's diversity in terrain and equatorial location on the equator. By starting at the farming sources of the treasured fine flavour cacao, and controlling the entire process we attain the best flavour and texture possible made entirely in Ecuador. 


Ecuadorian Cacao

Africa supplies over 70 % of the world's cacao production. In 2012  Ecuador produced 133,000  tons of cacao - however that only represents 2.7 % of the world's annual supply. Currently Ecuador has over 400,000 hectares of cacao under cultivation.

Over the last decade international recognition and demand for more flavourful cocoa has increased. Ecuador is emerging as a pre-eminent exporter of fine beans. The most famous native cocoa beans are "Nacional" or "Arriba".

In the lush province of Esmeraldas ( one of the poorest provinces in the country ), on Ecuador's northern border with Colombia, farmers proudly say they produce "black gold". They are not talking about oil, Ecuador's main export, but cacao beans for making exquisite quality chocolate. High quality cacao production has  become a sustainable source of income for Ecuador's farmers. 

 

The smaller farms of today have mango, papaya, plantain and citrus trees scattered among the cocoa plantation, creating a huge influence in the cacao bean's flavour.

Currently the artisan chocolate business is booming in Ecuador where distinguished culinary flavours are recognized by region, and even the individual farm.

 Here is an interesting video about where Cacao in Ecuador is coming from:         

History

Cocoa beans are one of this Andean country's claims to fame, being the world's largest exporter into the early 1900's.

Scholars & Archaeologists believe cocoa plants  originated in the Amazon basin. Discovery's have shown  that in Ecuador's southern Amazonian region of Zamora Chinchipe  cocoa beans were being harvested and consumed more than 5,000 years ago.

The West's love affair with chocolate started much later - in the 16th Century, when Aztec ruler Montezuma introduced Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes to a spicy chocolate drink, known as "xocolatl". The addition of sugar to the mix created popularity in Europe and Ecuador was exploited for its cocoa. By the mid-1800s, cacao comprised over half of the exports of Ecuador.

The flavorful Arriba cacao bean industry of the Guayas basin transformed the region. Many cocoa plantations were located along the Guayas river, which flows towards Ecuador's largest city, the port of Guayaquil. New towns such as Vinces in Los Rios Province emerged, and others grew. Wealthy cacao barons made the valley their home when they weren't hobnobbing abroad with their
European customers.

 Plant disease created disaster in 1916 & 1919 with production plummeting to less than 10 %, and the rise of new cultivations in British and French colonies across Africa and Asia caused Ecuador to loose its top spot. Hybrid species more resistant to disease, artificial shade, irrigation, and fertilizers were introduced. Farmers replaced cacao with crops of bananas and coffee which were then more lucrative.

Besides the risks and worry over diseases and insects, cacao farmers must contend with monkeys, squirrels and birds that enjoy the sweet pulp of the cacao and discard the "nasty-tasting" seeds. This is not all bad as if the creatures do not injure the beans, and they fall unscathed on fertile ground it will result in a new cacao tree. 

Ruta del Cacao  Tourism

Visitors who travel to Ecuador will see Theobroma cacao trees growing on farms and plantations from the coast towards the Andes, from Guayas Province north to Esmeraldas Province, and on Ecuador Amazon tours, growing wild along river banks. 
Normally visitors arrive in Ecuador in either Quito or Guayaquil. Take the opportunity to interact with local artisans who craft a variety of delicious products from the fresh chocolate.

In Quito  visit Kallari Chocolate featuring chocolate grown in the Napo province, Gianduja Chocolates.   In Guayaquil visit La Pepa de Oro restaurant features chocolate grown in Los Rios province, and tours may be arranged through Chchukululu Cacao Tours.   Ecuador Tourism promotes The Ruta del Cacao

 

In central Manabi visit the hacienda house and cacao plantation fields of La Providencia, approximately 20 kilometers East of Chone. If time permits a more intriguing option is spending a week immersed at the Río Muchacho Organic Farm ( near Canoa ) in the cacao plantation. 

Intrigued -  lots more interesting chocolate sites to visit

International Cocoa Organization 

Chocolate making business in Ecuador

Ruta del Cacao 

Cacao to Chocolate 


Appendix I

Forget death by chocolate. More and more research is showing that high quality, dark chocolate (or cocoa or cacao) may actually improve your health. Here are 13 reasons to love chocolate:

1.  Chocolate, cocoa, and cacao are high in the mineral magnesium which is essential for over 500 functions in your body, including:  heart health and muscle function.

2.  Chocolate may reduce the risk of heart failure. 

3.  Cocoa and cacao contain plant nutrients called proanthocyanidins. These phytonutrients have been shown in research to protect against carcinogens and nervous system toxins.

4.  It lowers blood pressure in people whose blood pressure is high, according to a meta-analysis study published in the Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews.

5.  Chocolate helps support the production of dopamine in the body.  Dopamine is a brain chemical that helps us feel good.  Impaired dopamine production is involved in brain disorders like Parkinson's disease. Foods that aid the production of dopamine may be helpful in the prevention of such illnesses.

6.  Cocoa, or chocolate with high amounts of it, lowers LDL cholesterol and raises HDL cholesterol (the good cholesterol).

7.  According to preliminary research in the journal Clinical Nephrology, cocoa and dark chocolate may help protect the kidneys from disease.

8.  Eating chocolate increases the levels of endorphins the body's own natural pain killers. Eating dark chocolate may help reduce pain.

9.  Raw cacao increases the amount of a substance called N-arachidonoylethanolamine in the brain   It is a neurotransmitter that improves communication between brain and nerve cells.It may also improve human memory.

10.  Consumption of raw cacao increases weight loss in overweight individuals, according to research in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.

11.  Eating dark chocolate causes the release of hormones called phenylethylamines (PEAs) that are also released when we are in love, helping us to feel happy.

12.  The high concentration of phytonutrients called flavonoids in dark chocolate are potent antioxidants. Antioxidants help eliminate free radicals associated with aging and inflammation in the body.

13.  It just tastes great. That's enough reason for most people.



Appendix II


Healthy Dark Chocolate Truffles

Chocolate truffles are generally deemed sinful thanks to the preponderance of cream and butter that is part of their charm. But it doesn't have to be that way! This version relies on raw cashews and dates for a rich and healthy base that is packed with nutrients rather than high-calorie dairy. Yum!

1 bag or bar of dark chocolate (12 oz)
1 2/3 cups raw cashews
8 oz dates, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
Zest of 1/2 of an orange

1. Melt chocolate in double boiler until just melted.
2. Meanwhile, blend 2/3 cups cashews with 2/3 cups water in blender on high for 30 seconds. Chop remaining cashews and set aside.
3. Fold together melted chocolate, cashew mixture, dates, sea salt, and orange zest.
4. Refrigerate until firm, approximately 45 minutes. Roll 3/4-inch balls in hands and then in chopped cashews. Refrigerate until ready to serve. (Note: Truffles will keep in freezer up to 1 month.)

Makes 24 truffles


Rich Chocolate Vegan Brownies

We stumbled upon this brownie recipe in The Vegan Family Cookbook by Brian P. McCarthy (Lantern Books, 2006) that wowed us. Not only does it negate the need for animal-based ingredients, but it gives the option of including whole wheat flour hurray! The only caveat for us here is that is calls for granulated sugar. We're not big advocates of refined sugar, and recommend replacing the sugar with a natural sweetener. Sucanat works perfectly with chocolate recipes like this because it gives baked goods a rich flavor.

1 cup flour (you can use half whole wheat flour here, if you prefer)
3/4 cup cocoa powder
1 1/4 cups sugar (or Sucanat, as noted above)
1/8 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cups chocolate chips
1/4 cup chopped walnuts (optional)
1/3 cup soy milk
1/3 cup extra light olive oil
1/4 cup silken tofu
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 350F.
2. In large bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa powder, sugar (or Sucanat), baking powder, salt, walnuts and chocolate chips.
3. In a blender, blend the soy milk, oil, tofu and vanilla.
4. Add blended mixture to the flour mixture in the large bowl and stir until just combined. Batter will be thick.
5. Spread batter out evenly into an 8-inch square, oiled baking dish.
6. Bake for 35 minutes or until toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean.



Vegan Mint Chocolate Chip Cookies

Dry Ingredients

2 cups spelt flour
1 cup vegan chocolate chips
1 cup walnuts  chopped
½ cup rolled oats
½ tsp. sea salt
½ tsp. baking soda
1/8 tsp. cinnamon
1 pinch nutmeg

Wet Ingredients

2/3 cup maple syrup
2/3 cup canola oil
2 Tbl. filtered water
1 tsp. peppermint extract

1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Place dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl and mix well. Combine wet ingredients in another large bowl. Add wet to dry and mix well. Refrigerate for 15 minutes.

2. Place 8 scoops on a well oiled baking sheet and flatten slightly with hand. Space evenly so cookies have room to spread.

3. Bake until golden brown, approximately 10 minutes. Allow to cool before enjoying

Enjoy more recipes 

Cuenca Mercados

April 22nd  is International Earth Day !  Did you know that "Pachamama" literally translates to Mother Earth ?  But to the indigenous people here in the Andes, it means deeper & meaningful connections with the universe, earth, sky, and time. 


 




Mercados in Cuenca are bustling, vibrant, bountiful, centres of economic activity - a profound experience to awaken all your senses.  Indoor and outdoor scattered throughout the city offering a wide range of goods and services. 

New to Cuenca we are fascinated with the number of fresh market options available for mother earth's bounty. The volumes (literally tons), and the diverse range of fruits, vegetables, dairy products, fresh meat & seafood, grains, nuts, spices and other services available at the local markets.  Over 12,500 licensed vendors, and many more unlicensed vendors, operate throughout the city in the markets listed below. Not being able to find a practical reference list we have prepared a list of these markets, their location / addresses,  and their unique offerings or specialties.

We hope it is of value and will endeavor to keep this list current, and updated. We would appreciate any additions, or pearls of wisdom from those who have more experience in  Cuenca.    



 
Feria Libre or El Arenal   -  west central on Las Americas y Remigio Crespo Toral

Open every day from 7:00 a:m to 6:00 p:m, this is Cuenca's largest and busiest market. Sprawling over several city blocks are covered arenas, specific purpose sheds, indoor stalls, and outdoor stalls. 

 

Not for the feint of heart, it can be overwhelming, and very easy to get lost for the first time visitor. People from surrounding farms & villages visit on Wednesday & Saturdays, creating an even busier atmosphere, and larger market sprawling over five hectares.   



 
As the Azuay province's primary wholesale agricultural marketplace, with well over 6,000 vendors it is a fascinating experience - colourful, and  busy. This market has flowers, fruits, vegetables, dairy products, variety of eggs, grains, nuts, spices, aisles of vendors selling roasted pig, cuy (guinea pig), fresh chicken, ducks, or geese,  several areas for fresh meats, several sections for fresh seafood.

 

Outdoors is a live animal area with geese, ducks, chickens. roosters, turkeys,  guinea pigs, rabbits, dogs, cats, budgies, cockatiels, goats, pigs, cows, and a variety of other live animals.  An enormous indoor maze of compact tiendas has dry goods, clothing, shoes, outerwear, underware, linens, Ecuadorian handicrafts, tools, cellphones, electronics, household items, cookware,  staple groceries, toys, plasticware,  hardware, wood products, music cds, watches, souvenirs and much more !  
Services include restaurants serving typical local food, and food and beverage vendors, duplicating keys, appliance repair, barber shops, and banks.

The market is located at El Arenal, one of two major transfer stations where most local bus routes converge. 

Mercado 3 de Noviembre     -  central historic district on Mariscal Lamar y Colonell Guillermo Talbot
 
Open daily from 10:00 a:m - 8:00 p:m except Sundays. This is Cuenca's oldest market specializing in the commercial sale & distribution of grains and dried corn & beans.

 

 Remodeled in 2004 it is two floors and one of our favourite.  An industrial metal structure featuring natural light, open air spaces & balconies - reminding us of the popular Robson Street Market in Vancouver, B.C.  

 

For some reason it is not very popular and currently has 132 vendor stalls occupied out of  223 available stalls (only 60 % occupied ) .  In addition to its open style, there is more labeling and pricing than other markets.   The attraction for us is it is not as busy, and vendors have additional time to explain and answer our numerous questions.  

This market has fruits, vegetables, dairy products, grains, nuts, spices, dried beans & corn, meat, poultry, seafood, basic groceries, traditional food, coffees, ice cream and fresh juice bar. 


 

It has an interesting ecological vendor making and selling recycled tires made into a variety of decorative planters, and hanging flower pots.

One of the city's largest & best ferreteria's for selection and price is Ferreteria Vasquez Brito right across the street.


Mercado 9 de Octubre        -  northeast historic center district on Mariscal Lamar y Mariano Cueva

Operating daily from 8:00 a:m  this market is one of the oldest, a three floor traditional mercado was refurbished in 2009 to be modern, clean and spacious.  It has a very high sales volume. Located in an area once considered unsafe, dirty, and plagued with social problems of poverty and prostitution it has now been cleaned up and presents a new public face.

A fantastic selection of fresh fruits, vegetables, plants, variety of herbs, crafts, and clothes. 

 

Traditional foods are available on the third floor. This market's known specialty is practicing Shaman healing rituals and medicinal herbs and plants.  




Mercado 10 de Agosto         -  central historic district on Calle Largo y General Torres

Operating daily from 7:00 a:m  this traditional 90 year old mercado is one of Cuenca's major and most popular markets. It's facelift makes it the only market in Cuenca with an elevator and escalator. Housing 630 vendors it also provides free parking. Providing an environment and real Cuencan life experience this market has fruits, vegetables, dairy products, grains, nuts, spices, dried beans, meat, poultry, seafood, basic groceries, clothing, wicker items, traditional foods, ice cream smoothie juice bar, and medicinal herbs & plants. 



 

Mercado 27 de Febrero          -  southern area  on Avenida 10 de Agosto y Adolfo Torres


Operating daily from 9:00 a:m  One of the newer farmer's type markets primarily with  fresh fruits and vegetables.


Mercado 12 de Abril                  -  eastern area  on Viracochabamba y General Eloy Alfaro


Operating daily from 8:00 a:m to 4:00 p:m  This 32 year old enclosed market is a centre of supplies for the area with fruits, vegetables, dairy products, dried fruits & nuts, spices, meat, poultry, seafood, basic groceries, and traditional foods (wonderful cerdo hornado & ceviches) clothing, footware, toys. With free parking, this market is said to have great prices. 


 
Nearby this mercado is a CADALES (which is Casa de Las Especias - House of Spices)


Plaza de San Francisco Market        - central historic district on Padre Aguirre y Presidente Cordova


Open daily 8 am - 5 pm an outdoor block of clothing, shoes, cookware, kitchen utensils, wicker, ceramics, ironworks. and plastic trinkets.  Most noted for its religious paraphernalia and the Otavalen weavings, sweaters, scarves, blankets, panchos, skirts, dresses, and beautiful hand embroidered blouses and shirts. 


CEMUART - Casa de la Mujer Artesanal - central historic district on General Torres y Presidente Cordova

Opening daily at 9:00 am - operating through to 6:30 pm Monday to Friday;  5:00 p:m  Saturday;  1:00 p:m Sunday A more formal collection of 100 artesans in an indoor area on the western side of Plaza de San Francisco.  You will find stained glass, paintings, ceramics, embroidered clothing, wooden carvings, weaving, handmade musical instruments, unique gifts, jewelry, typical Ecuadorian crafts, and much more. 


Plaza Rotary (Mercado de Atesanias Rotary) - Plaza Sangurima on Gaspar Sangurima  y Vargas Machuca.

Operating daily from 8:00 a:m  also known as Plaza Civica. One of our favourite artesan markets for practical household items, wooden furniture, wicker, iron works, bar-b-ques, tinsmiths, clay pottery, and a wide assortment of artesan crafts.   


Flower Market (Plaza de las Flores)  - central historic district on Calle Mariscal Sucre y Padre Aguirie

Open daily in El Carman Square for a rich and colourful selection of flower arrangements, roses, and a wide variety of local plants and flowers. 


 

Plaza Santa Ana              - located at the corner of Benigno Malo y Mariscal Lamar

Artesan stalls with a variety of jewelry, and small handicrafts.


Craft Market                 - located at the corner of Sangurima y Matura

Open daily from 8 am - 5 pm.  Basketry, ceramics, ironworks, kitchen utensils and bright plastic animals.


La Esquina de Las Artes      - El Barranco on Av. 12 de Abril y Agustin Cueva.

Open Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7:30 pm and Sunday from 10 am to 2 pm.  A commercial centre for promoting the arts with distinguished artesans showcasing ceramics, glass,  wood crafts, textiles, embroidery, jewelry, and more. On Saturdays from 5 pm to 6 pm, enjoy live music and folkloric dances.


Sombrero  Market                  -  Plaza Maria Auxillafora  on La Condemine y Tarqui

On Thursday mornings a great opportunity to purchase a hand woven hat from craftsmen in the area.



 
Organic Farmer's Markets

Open on Saturdays 6 am until noon but you can expect many things to be gone very early.  A few of the vendors are also there on Wednesdays.


1.)  Entrepreneurs  Fair             -  Patios Prefecture of Azuay

Cuenca's newest organic farmers market where 200 stalls offer vegetables, fruits, grains, bread, herbs, plants, clothes, crafts, and other offerings direct from the producers and craftsmen. Support your local entrepreneurs and save money with competitive prices.  Now open on Sunday mornings as well. 
 
2.)   This market is located near El Tiempo which is on Av. Lola.

3.)   On the corner of Las Americas y Avenida Mexico where the annual carnival is located.  Vendors selling honey can be found here. 
 
4.)   San Joaquin Coopera Farmer's Market  -  about two miles along the Cajas autopista.
 
5.)   Mercado Miraflores located at Parque Miraflores
                       
6.)   Gran Sol Coopera Farmer's Market has multiple locations.

Comparison of Coastal & Sierra living in Ecuador

 After six months now in Cuenca it is appropriate to comment on our observations of the major differences between  living in a small coastal village and the major urban cultural centre of Cuenca.

 

Recognize that our  experiences in Cuenca are relatively short at this time and may refine with the passing of time. Other's living experiences may differ, and certainly no two areas are alike.  Our life at the coast in Bahia de Caraquez was  a wonderful chapter in our life's adventure.  

The obvious differences between sea level and the altitude of 8,400 ft the weather is somewhat cooler with more precipitation, creating a lush green environment with different vegetation.  While the air is thinner ( 25 % less oxygen )  it seems much cleaner and easier to breathe, even given the large population of an urban centre.

 

 The rich black fertile volcanic soil is excellent for all tropical plants, fruits and vegetables.   The coast is arid and desert like with extremely poor clay like soil.  We learned a lot about many different cacti.  There we struggled to maintain a hobby farm with flower gardens,  fruit trees, and animals  with the lack of water and poor soil.  The soil here in Cuenca  is like the English Fairy Tale " Jack and the Beanstalk "  where any seed sprouts and grows instantaneously.  Cuenca has significantly more annual hours of sunshine than Bahia which is very often overcast and grey.  Mid day temperatures are mid-twenties Celsius with it cooling off in the evening into the teens.  Bahia's temperatures were consistent in the mid to high twenties throughout  the entire day and night  with a high level of humidity and salt brine in the air.  The warm waters of the Pacific Ocean or the Chone River Estuary were available for swimming or water sports.

The high altitude provides a " bug free " living environment.  This is one thing we will not miss about the coast where we personally learned about more snakes & insects than we could ever imagine and their annual life cycles.  A word of caution the more brilliantly colored the insect or snake is, the more dangerous or toxic the poison ie higher level of caution !  




It is no secret that maintenance and upkeep for homes, vehicles, or anything is significantly higher on the coast.  

Cost of living in Bahia de Caraquez is well known as one of the highest in Ecuador with Cuenca being significantly less expensive.   Bahia's new shopping mall may well have enhanced their access to consumer goods somewhat but it still cannot compare with the many alternatives available in a larger centre. 

 The coastal fishermen have a very laid back approach to life, and are known as " lazy " by their more industrious indigenous neighbours in the Sierra.  At first this was an endearing quality coming from a " driven North American " environment, but watching things erode,  inaction, and the constant party atmosphere becomes wearing and more difficult to accept over time.  

An endless variety of restaurants with diverse ethnic cuisines available in Cuenca. 

 With a new light rapid transit system, high speed internet, modern educational institutions, University's participation in community administration, modern manufacturing facilities, and strong tourism in  Cuenca it no longer feels like you are deprived of basic amenities in a developing country.
Health care services are modern and readily available in Cuenca. 

 
While this is improving slowly, access to a higher quality of education at all levels is available in Cuenca.  The educational year in the Sierra is similar to North America's September to June while the coastal school year is from April to January with February & March as vacation.

 

Cultural and entertainment options, activities are plentiful in Cuenca while  limited events were available in Bahia.  Cuenca has preserved a rich heritage of historic buildings and churches,  while Bahia's history is  poorly documented, and historic buildings neglected.   Bahia de Caraquez was once the major port in Ecuador, and seems to be in decline - perhaps in part to forces of Mother Nature, or corrupt governance - resulting in the sleepy vacation resort village of today.      

Traveling & Discovery has always been important to us, and we were finding that without access to an airport in Bahia the extra two days required to get to and from an airport in Guayaquil or Quito and  the logistics of overnight accommodation was becoming a strain. Currently we are 15 minutes from the airport in Cuenca in a condominium where we can simply lock the door and go !   In addition Cuenca is only several hours from the Amazon, the mighty Pacific Ocean, and many of Ecuador's most popular attractions - many new exploration adventures for us. 

More subtle differences include :

Interesting enough community involvement - while there are opportunities available we and one other couple were the only expats to engage, and volunteer in the local community.   In Cuenca many expats have availed themselves of the opportunities available to engage with the community.

Cooking & baking at high altitude is more complicated and requires adaption of many recipes and experience. 



Bahia is a sleepy coastal village that's population literally exploded during  holidays and vacations.  People from the Sierra vacationing on the coast.  Cuenca ( in the Sierra )  is a thriving modern urban metropolis that becomes a " ghost town " during holidays and vacations.  The difference is absolutely remarkable, and these extremes would not be seen in any North American city !   




And one of the most significant subtle differences is crime.  The coastal court system is corrupt and despite the best efforts of the federal government to implement change, it has not been successful. Due to this lack of punishment or justice,  criminal activity is significantly higher.  Actually almost without fail when Cuencanos learn we lived on the coast for six years they exclaim " how did you manage to survive amongst all the thieves ."   We experienced several significant robberies,  know of dozens of friends home invasions,  and were " swindled " out of thousands of dollars in dealings with four different expat families during our time on the coast.  Justice was not achieved in a single one of these situations.  Now having said that, we left behind, and miss, many good local families that were friends.  They remain very frustrated with the effect crime is having on their community, tourism, and themselves.  

A new study shows Ecuador expats in rural areas are more vulnerable to crime. "Conspicuousness" is one reason why.

A graduate school research project indicates that expats living in small towns and rural areas are more vulnerable to serious crime than those living in cities.

The research, by University of Edinburgh doctoral student Kelly Fowler, focuses on expats in Ecuador, Costa Rica, Panama and Spain.

"What we are finding is that foreigners living in cities, among the local population, are far less conspicuous than those living in the countryside and are less vulnerable to crime. This is true in Ecuador as well as in other major expat destinations." Fowler says. "City expats suffer far fewer cases of crimes such as home invasions, kidnappings, physical attacks and household break-ins."

In Ecuador, Fowler's work looked at crime against expats in Cuenca, Vilcabamba, Cotacachi, Quito as well as several small coastal communities. She was assisted in the project by former criminology professor and part-time Cuenca expat Martin Simmons.

Fowler and Simmons interviewed more than 100 Ecuador expats, most of them from the U.S., Canada and the UK. "One thing we found was that a surprising number of crimes against expats go unreported and this is true in Ecuador as well as other countries." She reports that out of six serious crimes against foreigners she studied in Vilcabamba, only three were reported. In the Cotacachi area, it was two of five and in five coastal areas, it was six of 12.

"Victims tell us that they don't report crimes because the perpetrators tell them they will take revenge if they do," Fowler says.

Fowler and Simmons also say that some of the non-reporting is due to the fact that expats don't want to attract attention to the themselves. "In some cases, the expat victims are involved in illegal activities themselves or are in violation of their visas," Simmons says. "Sometimes, the bad guys are aware of this and know the victims will not make a report. It's like crimes among drug dealers."

One of the more surprising findings of Fowler's research is the involvement of other expats in crimes. "We went into the project thinking that almost all the perpetrators would be locals but found that other foreigners were often involved," she says. "In cases that were not reported, victims often suspected other foreigners of being part of the plot."

Simmons says that expats in small communities often make themselves vulnerable to crime for two major reasons.

"First, they are highly visible, which means that they make themselves targets. In Cotacachi and Vilcabamba, it's hard to miss the big 'look-at-me' gringo houses perched on the hills around town," he says. "If you live in a community of mostly poor people and make a point of advertising your wealth, you make yourself vulnerable."

"Second, we found that many expats in small communities make very little effort to get to know the locals. They prefer to be segregated with other expats and many of them told us they have no intention of learning Spanish," Simmons says. "Expats we talked to in Quito and Cuenca make more of an effort to become involved in the community."

Although Fowler has not completed her research, she says that, so far, she is "amazed" at the the discrepancy in serious crime against expats in the country in contrast to that in cities. "There are about 4,000 foreign residents in Cuenca but there have been only two reported home invasions involving foreigners in the past five years," she says. "By contrast, in Vilcabamba, with only 300 foreign residents, we found three reported cases. Statistically, that's a huge difference."

Fowler's research shows that the most dangerous area in Ecuador for expats is the coast. "This isn't a surprise since the coast has the highest crime rate in general," she says. "Manta, Esmeraldas and Guayaquil have the highest crime rates in Ecuador."

If there is good news about living in the country, Fowler says, it's that petty crime is far less common than than in cities. "Small crime against foreigners, like pick-pocketing and theft of bags and other belongings on the street, is higher in the cities but it is in line with crime against tourists in general."

Fowler said that the overall crime picture in Ecuador is better than in the other countries she is studying and that the trend is positive. "Compared with Spain, Panama and Costa Rica, expats in Ecuador suffer fewer crimes. Crime is increasing in Spain and Panama and is holding steady in Costa Rica, but it is dropping in Ecuador," she says. She and Simmons credit the decline to government spending on crime prevention, including the hiring of more police, the installation of surveillance cameras in urban areas and a new nationwide 911 monitoring program.

Simmons says that no matter where expats live, they can control their vulnerability.  "The bottom line is that we are all responsible for our level of vulnerability," he says. "Be smart. Be safe."

This article's findings  are consistent and reaffirms  our observations, writing, and experiences here in both a small coastal community in  Ecuador, and Cuenca.

As always we welcome your  experiences, thoughts and observations.