Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador May 2009

We flew from Santiago to Lime, Peru. Peru has vast stretches of desert like, desolate beaches. The country appears to be very poor, and the international airport looks more like a museum, and winged craft wrecking yard littered with large & small vintage military and passenger aircraft, than a busy international airport. We will cover Peru in depth when we adventure to Machu Pichu.
From Lima we flew to Guayaquil, Ecuador a bustling commercial port. The modern cosmopolitan port is humid, and warm, and a growing destination for travelers. Transported by taxi to the new bus station which operates in conjunction with a new, large shopping mall. While this is normally an appreciated convenience, a porter was required to assist us in negotiating our luggage safely through the multi-level mall and the crowds of shoppers. Of course we had more luggage than normal vacationers would have, and faced the logistical challenges of taxi transfers, and buses to our destination of Bahia de Caraquez.

Now we know, at this point in time, that North American media’s hype & ballyhoo about A (H1N1) the official name for swine flu which has been factually linked to 17 deaths in Mexico, and minor symptoms in other countries scattered around the world. WHO alarmist reports have differed widely in an attempt to confuse and save face. They have successfully set Mexico & Latin American economies back once again by dissuading emmigration, and travellers. Incidentally 36,000 people die in the U.S. from flu viruses each year, and 500,000 worldwide!! Pig farmers around the world have been devastated! A powerful, orchestrated economic boost to large drug & medical supply companies (masks), media diversion of attention from the economy, and control of migration through fear, along with governments worldwide intervention with private enterprise and the economy. We must again wonder & question …….

Although Ecuador is one of the smallest countries in South America, it surely has some of the continent's most spectacular points-of-interest. Ecuador has two cities that UNESCO has declared world cultural heritage: Quito and Cuenca. They are both architectural jewels that have preserved archaeological and colonial treasures. Quito, the political capital is described by many travelers as the most beautiful city in South America. With its elevation and location near the Equator, its climate is always “spring like.” And of course the Galapagos Islands, with its marine reserve and the National Park Sangay has been declared Natural Heritage of the World. There are several national parks; the Avenue of the Volcanoes (Cotopaxi),Podocarpus, and Yasumi; rainforest; the cities of Ambato and Otavalo; and the natural springs at Banos. The indigenous populations mixed with those of European descent give Ecuador a unique cultural texture. It's a very friendly country, with people known for warm, welcoming hospitality, where it is hard to describe the “love of life” & happiness, even when often faced with adverse living conditions.

Our nine hour bus journey along poor coastal roads filled with potholes, was slowed & delayed several times with lengthy parades of cars, and trucks filled with residents waving flags, and marching parades. We discover that we are several days away from the presidential, provincial, and city elections. All held on the same day, Sunday April 25^th. People jubilantly rally for their preferred party candidate. Voting is an obligation here, met with a significant fine if ignored. So the outcome, from practically 100 % of the populous, accurately reflects the desires of he people. The sale of alcohol is prohibited nationwide for three days prior to the election. These parades with bands, and music filled the streets each night until the day of the election. On the day of the election, streets and parks were filled with families picnicking, vendor concession stalls - it was a wonderful vibrant social occasion not even remotely resembling any voting experience we have seen in North America, nor the staunch military, or corruption experienced in other Latin American countries. Ecuador has not had any leadership stability over the last 12 years so it is good that Correa, after 2 years in office , has garnered the people’s support in re-election. It will enable him to orderly implement his plans for change.

Bahia de Caraquez established in 1642, with archeological findings from a variety of pre-hispanic cultures to 300 B.C. , is located in approximately the middle of Ecuador’s coastline on a sandy peninsula of land at the mouth of the Rio Chone. An extensive malecon (seawall walk) similar to Vancouver, B.C. extends along the peninsula with the mouth of the river estuary on one side, and the mighty Pacific Ocean on the other. We often enjoy the tranquility of walking the malecon. Friday & Saturday evenings, there is a 10 – 12 foot tide, and if high, we will be dodging the sea’s powerful splashing waves. Locals gather along the malecon strumming their guitars and singing, or dancing to calypso music blasting from their boomboxes. Late at night the sidewalk stroll is busy with a myriad of insects and critters scurrying about.

The harbour supports a variety of commercial vessels, and its shelter and tranquillity provides a favorite stop for private yachts, and leisure craft activity. Currently several dozen yachts are moored here, with sailors from around the world. Many stopped for supplies or a brief visit and have been here for months!




Additional information and photos on Bahia Caraquez may be obtained at:

Chamber of Commerce: http://www.bahiadecaraquez.net/

Municipality: http://www.bahiadecaraquez.com/

Local Newspaper: http://www.elnuevoglobo.com/

Museum : http://www.museodebahiadecaraquez.com/

The MVSEO in Bahia has a wonderful archeological exposition with pre-Columbian pottery.

Around Bahía, excursions can be done in the estuary of the Río Chone to the following islands:

• Isla Corazón.- featuring a mangrove environment and estuary for birds and marine life. The bird colonies located at the end of the island but may be seen only by boat.
• Isla Fragatas.- 15 minutes by boat from Bahía with a myriad of bird types. Between August and January a large colony of frigate birds can be seen very closely showing their inflated red sacks during the mating ritual season.

Other interesting places to visit around the area are:

• Punta Bellaca, a beautiful beach on the way to Chirije close to the Cerro de las Orquídeas hill.
• The archaeological site of Chirije, surrounded by tropical forest and nice beaches with boutique resort accomodation is 45 minutes south of Bahía. Chirije used to be a seaport of the Bahía Culture (500 BC-500 AD). This is a good place to relax, as well as for other activities in the area as birdwatching and horse riding.
• Saiananda Located 5 km from Bahía, is a very interesting park. It has a very unusual combination of native and domestic animals and birds such as: Chuchuchos, sloths, ostriches, macaws, deer, geese, rabbits, peacocks, donkeys, and cows. The park also has a cactus collection and a bonsai garden.
• Canoa is another attractive beach especially for hanggliders.
• The Río Muchacho organic farm located in a river setting 10 km north of Canoa, offers horse riding trips on the farm, making chocolate, and rustic accommodation.
• Cerra Seco – dry forest ecology
• Casa Ceibo a new exclusive resort hotel
• Miradora Cross

Our temporary home here is Coco Bongo operated by Susie a wonderful Australian lady. Located near the malecon it receives a dynamic array of travellers from around the world (young & old). Currently there is a young lady from Sweden, finishing her thesis on eco-tourism and another from the U.S. undertaking a teaching exchange program in ecology.

Bahia city suffered three significant natural disasters in 1997 & 1998 a major earthquake levelled a large portion of the city and left its residents without electricity and water for many months, El Nino rains caused extensive flooding and erosion of the hillsides, and an epidemic disease which wiped out their shrimp farms. To this day they are still recovering from those natural disasters. Most of the damage has been repaired, but some buildings and houses remain vacant and some damage remains visible, or repairs are still being undertaken. It is also one of the favourite vacation beach resorts for wealthy Ecuadorians, and home to a previous president. Consequently the city has infrastructure, and green parkland which seems to be much more than a small population of 25,000 urban & 15,000 rural residents would warrant. The town is a relaxed and very safe place to live in with a constantly tropical temperature of between 23 and 36 degrees centigrade.

Bahia declared itself an "eco-city" in 1999, initiating ambitious plans to recycle the city’s waste, and bring it into harmony with the surrounding bioregion. A consistent flow of water is not always readily available from city pipelines resulting in it being treated with respect as a very precious commodity. All homes, and businesses, have large water storage cisterns, rain water collection systems on roofs, and grey water systems for irrigation, to ensure water is always available. An extensive system of water trucks delivers potable water in the event of additional needs. Bahia has a thriving inner city taxi system of human powered tricyclettas. For almost a decade this small community has undertaken a much more extensive recycling program than the program which Kamloops has just now initiated. Bags of litter collected off the beach are rewarded with a free drink in local watering holes! Come on down Mark!

There are active grassroots discussions on utilizing alternative energy systems harnessing solar and wind power however currently utility costs here are so inexpensive (50 lb propane bottle $ 1.50 – average monthly electrical bill is $ 20) that these systems are uneconomical to install at this time.

In Latin America one needs to have an open mind in order to be accepting of the differences along with the positive attributes. For example while there are many new cars, motorcycles, & scooters, there are also old ones – no not restored! Noisy, without mufflers – often music blaring and puffing their way up the hillsides. Vive de largo Ford!! Roads on the coast are windy, narrow and filled with potholes. Roosters have been imported here from other time zones as they crow from evening to early morning dawn!

Semi-trucks, buses, quad ATV’s, tractors, and horses successfully share the streets. Hot water on demand from a tap is not standard here – hot showers – when available - are commonly provided by an electrical powered heater right in the shower head known as “a widow maker”. Refrigeration is less popular than cell phones, and while electric models are available, it is more common to be a simple ice box. Due to the tropical climate most families shop daily for fresh meat and produce, and milk is either unpasteurized fresh from the farm, or in an unrefrigerated tetra pack. Litter, debris, and animal excrement can be unsightly and disturbing.

A local school is home to a tortoise from the Galapagos Islands. Apparently miguleta appeared on the beach many years ago (1920) and ended up at the school playground. He was returned to the Galapagos but didn’t eat and got sick. They brought him back and he has lived happily as the school’s mascot ever since.

Several days after the election a “city block “was closed to traffic and a celebration party held for the mayor. Live bands entertained from a stage with a system of large speakers and myriad of lights to rival a live concert in New York! Street vendors sold a variety of food and snacks, and alcoholic drinks were available. The air was filled with loud music, and a sweet aroma from caldrons cooking slowly a hot alcoholic drink filled with fresh tropical fruit. Even though the evening was dampened with rain, there was a fair crowd dancing in the streets. On normal weekends music, laughter, conversation, and a variety of smells fill the air from streets and squares filled with people socializing.

We took a water taxi - panga - across the river to San Vicente and Canoa. We hope this transportation method is not made obsolete with the new bridge scheduled for completion in two years. Architectural design photos of the project are available at the city’s web site (referenced above), along with the many other current projects underway. On the other side we hopped in the back of a local’s pick-up truck, along with several others, and enjoyed “an open air”, “ hairdo changing”, journey 14 kms up the coast. Canoa is a small fishing village with unpaved streets, but a very popular beach. It rivals Montanita in drawing young travelers (and young at heart) to surf & sun on the beaches with a very active nightlife. Primitive beach shacks open during busy weekends to play music, serve food & beverages, and other wares. These informal stands hook themselves to the power lines and take business away from the formal permanent businesses located immediately behind them. Disputes arise resembling the untamed “ wild west”.

Ryan we have enjoyed some of the world’s finest pizza (next to yours of course) in the beach of San Clemente, a small village about 30 minutes south. A young Italian man, Graziani, who bakes in a wood fired clay oven adjacent to the beach. Fresh seafood harvested from the sea, and herbs and tomatoes from his garden provided the ingredients for the extraordinary culinary delight. About 8 years ago he adopted a lifestyle where he works in the tourist industry in Italy for 3 months a year, and the balance of the year enjoys and relaxes here in Ecuador. (reminiscent of the 60’s counter culture lov’n generation) .

One day we helped a Danish couple, who have become very good friends, in the construction of their new home in a quiet, forested, mountain location overlooking the estuary, a shrimp farm, & Bahia Ciudad. We discovered that aging has impacted more than just our “memory sticks” with exertion from physical labour in this tropical climate. The cleared site for the house is surrounded by natural “dry jungle “like cacti, vines, and fruit trees. We encountered a scorpion, a few mosquitoes, ants, a poisonous centipede like caterpillar, this bug that looks like a leaf, and a large black beetle ( 3 “ long ) with a white back and red markings which was new to everyone. A couple days later we enjoyed dinner in their magnificent two story penthouse apartment on one of four balconies overlooking the estuary, ocean, and city life. A stark contrast to a typical city dwelling.

Valparaiso Chile April 2009

Chile's Ministry of Tourism currently has a wonderful advertising campaign you may have seen on North American television. Chile is one of South America's most stable and prosperous nations which is quickly assimilating North America. Within Latin America it leads in terms of human development, competitiveness, political stability, globalization, economic freedom, low perception of corruption and comparatively low poverty rates, with high rankings for freedom of the press and democratic development. With this situation the cost of living is also comparable to North America.Each day, walking in Santiago was met with a new discovery: Parque Metropolitano has a mountainside zoo - home to 158 different species of animals (some cages were very nice but some were too small, dirty, and smelly from the heat – the poor misplaced polar bear ! ); a modern & extensive system of metro trains; Costanera Centre construction cranes and activity; autopistas of Santiago; teleferico; Japanese & rose gardens; Funicular - an outdoor escalator / elevator with a capacity of 50 people in each car. It travels 485 meters on an incline of 48 degrees and is the traditional system of access to the monument of the Virgin in the sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception; we dined in a typical Chilean restaurant with live music and cultural dancing.

Valparaíso (Paradise Valley) an intriguing coastal seaport located in the centre of Chile is built upon dozens of steep hillsides overlooking the Pacific Ocean. In 2003 UNESCO has declared Valparaíso's labyrinth of streets, and cobblestone alleyways, with rich architecture a World Heritage Site. With it's picturesque harbour, Pablo Neruda (whose home we visited) immortalized the city as the "novia del oceano". With some 250,000 inhabitants it was known as " little San Francisco" and played an important role in the second half of the 19th century, when the city served as a major stopover for ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. It played a major role during the California Gold Rush. The opening of the Panama Canal was a major blow to the ship traffic and the city's economy. During the brief summer, there are many international cruise ships in the port, and it is a hub for freight containers, fresh fruit, copper, and wine.

We enjoyed meandering through the myriad of steep cobblestone streets where often older, richly colourful buildings would appear perched in mid air overhanging steep cliff sides. The architecture has been influenced by many immigrant cultures and provides inspiration for architecture students from around the world. In addition to staircases which traverse the steep hillsides, Valparaíso has an unusual system of ascensores funicular elevators (highly-inclined cable cars) which are one of the world's 100 most endangered historical treasures, or the Polanco elevator where one enters a long dimly lit mine-shaft like tunnel, and then a traditional vertical elevator which lifts its passengers several hundred feet within the earth to emerge to a daylight exit near the mountain top. There we found an abundance of fine restaurants serving typical plates and folkloric music, and artesan kiosks.

Although Santiago is the official capital, Valparaiso is home to the National Congress, and nine major universities. It is linked by a modern toll highway which has overpass stations which recognize a chip in each car and levy an incremental fee by electronic satellite depending on the distance traveled. There is no need to slow down or carry any money – you receive a monthly bill via mail. Latin American communities embrace life with an extensive variety of events and festivals. "Valparaiso Downhill" is a new mountain bike race, taking place in February that has bicycle racers compete down stairs and alleys - going from the surrounding hills down to the lowlands. At New Year's they have a famous festival of fireworks, the biggest in all of Latin America, attended by a million tourists who fill the coastline and hillsides with a view of the bay. Immediately adjacent to Valparaiso is the "Vineyard of the Sea" Viña del Mar a popular beach destination for tourists. It is home to a famous casino Hotel del Mar and the Presidential summer Palace. We strolled along the extensive malecon from the flower clock, north of the Casino, to the Naval Armoury at the southern end of the city. Artists have designed a variety of life like sandcastle sculptures along the beaches and seek donations from the photos taken by the passing tourists. Large sand dunes lay opposite the ocean and provide a playground for ATV's, motorcycles, jeeps, and dune buggy's.

We visited a winery in the Casa Blanca Valley which was very similar to the cottage wineries in the Okanagan, or California. While there are many similarities to the cottage wineries of Napa & the Okanagan, it was very interesting to learn although Chilean wines have a strong international reputation they are relatively young vineyards (established in the early 90's). In this particular vineyard a helicopter is employed, just prior to harvest, in order to keep the " frosty " evening air from damaging the grape crop. The adjacent winery had permanent windmill fans to accomplish the same task. The innovative methods of dealing with a variety of challenges in Latin America are refreshing.

We enjoyed a weekend escape to the city of Olmue with the warmth & hospitality of Cristian's family. Olmue is a very popular summer country / mountain escape for the coastal people located in Mount La Campana a National Park. The family retreat was very quiet and relaxing, sitting in the yard by the pool, and listening to the birds, and watching the small lizards sun themselves. That evening we enjoyed the best fresh scallops around a campfire, lasagna, the music of a guitar, fine Chilean wine and a cool evening breeze. Reminiscent of a summer evening camping in beautiful British Columbia we talked until the fire embers died down. During the next day we toured the small village in Cristian's yellow circa 1970's Citroen convertible 2CV. This car is unique and a fairly rare collector auto in North America, but was fairly common here a decade ago. Apparently Argentina has a large association of Citroen 2CV owners / collectors. I always wanted one of these cars when I got big & grew up! Oh the appeal of cars with lots of character. Along the roadsides are country fresh fruit and vegetable stands, homemade jams & preserves. The following day it was a welcome & pleasant change to assist with gardening chores and yard activities.

Chile & Argentina - April 2009

Saludos por Fin del Mundo, (end of the world )

We departed Canada in early spring (according to the calendar) for Santiago, Chile. We left a harsh, 75 year record breaking winter behind us with the city of Calgary completely covered in a thick white blanket of snow - more typical of a day in mid December.

We arrived in Santiago Chile with sore wings from flying -11.5 hours by air from Toronto.

Chile's geographic shape is unusual — 4,300 km long and on average 175 km wide gives it a hugely varied climate, ranging from the northern Atacama (world's driest desert) with copper mineral wealth, through a Mediterranean climate in the centre, to a snow & alpine climate in the south and a labyrinth of fjords, inlets, canals, twisting peninsulas, islands, glaciers, and lakes. It is the youngest of the South American countries.

Santiago is both the capital and largest city of Chile. About 20 years of uninterrupted economic growth has transformed Santiago into one of Latin America's most modern metropolitan areas, with extensive suburban development, dozens of shopping malls, and impressive high-rise architecture. There is little sign of economic slowdown here as the activity and noise of large high rise construction and cranes tower overhead everywhere. A major example is the Costanera Centre, a mega project in Santiago's Financial District. A 280,000 square-metre mall, with a 300-metre tower, twin office towers of 170 metres each, and a hotel. When completed in 2010 it will be the tallest building in South America.

However, the developer has prudently indicated that scale will be reduced until financial uncertainty has passed. This strong growth, and economic stability, has many large multinational companies relocating to region: Coca Cola, Procter & Gamble, Nestle, Microsoft, HP and Rueters.

Santiago is probably the most " North American like" city that we have seen so far in our travels of South America. It's citizen's are striving towards a materialistic North American lifestyle seeking brand names & style and influenced by mass marketing. The huge divergence in societal class and income level, common in South America, has been homogenized here into a large middle class. There is a marked proliferation of automobiles with single occupants, and a drastic reduction in the number of buses and taxis. Large retail malls & North American outlets including Starbucks have a successful presence here. The costs of living, and prices of most items, are comparable to Canada (except liquor - a bottle of fine Chilean wine @ $ 3.00.

Given the high volumes of commuter automobile traffic they have impressively managed to preserve many tree lined boulevards and pedestrian friendly sidewalks squares, fountains, and parks, and operate public transit very successfully with extensive subway lines, and modern slinky buses.

We stopped for lunch in an outdoor shopping plaza with peaceful water fountains. It consisted of Pisco Sours (national drink of Chile) and a popular dish called crudo. When it arrived it looked like a large fresh hamburger patty destined to be bar-b-qued. Condiments of diced onions, mined parsley, hot peppers, lemon, olive oil, and mustard were added and to our surprise the raw meat was enjoyable. An afternoon stroll through a park where there was ponds, grassy fields, children's playgrounds and an acre of dog friendly area with toys and activities for the dogs similar to a giant " Super Dog " show in Vancouver. This was without question the nicest park designed for dogs we have ever seen! Subsequently we have seen " dog walkers" are a common commercial activity in the large metropolises.

We traveled the Trans-Andean highway (350 kms) part of the an-American Highway between Santiago de Chile and Mendoza, Argentina by CATA International ejecutivo bus. A double decker coach with large leather reclining seats and several sleeping berths. This route is reported to be one of the world's great drives. We can attest that the scenery is spectacular, and the variety of rock formations and vivid coloration is a geologist's dream. The snow capped, rugged mountains are in view much of the time.

A narrow gauge Trans Andean railway line (abandoned in the early 80's) parallels much of the highway. Cliffs rising from dry river bottoms similar to the Walachin area in British Columbia reflect a patchwork quilt of brick and stone support work for the road and railway, undertaken over many years. One of the highlights of the trip is the view of Cerro Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the southern hemisphere reaching 22,841 feet, and the highest mountain outside the Himalayas that separate India, Nepal and Pakistan from China. We saw our first wild Alpaca

The Chilean – Argentine border is crossed by the Cristo Redentor tunnel, at an elevation of 9,800 feet. Completed in the early 80's, the tunnel is nearly two miles long. To reach the tunnel there are a total of 29 switchback curves (there goes San Francisco's Lombard street's claim to fame) with an elevation rise of 8,000 feet. Our entry into Argentina required an hours wait at the combined Chilean-Argentine customs station on the east side of Cristo Redentor Tunnel. Following the wait was a magnificent alpine lake reminding us of Lake Louise in Alberta's Canadian Rockies.

We saw Mendoza, an area world famous for its vineyards and wineries. The total bus trip from Santiago to Buenos Aires was just over 24 hours with considerable time consumed with slow commercial truck traffic, border crossings, and numerous inspection stations.

Buenos Aires is the 12^th largest city in the world with a cosmopolitan population of over 13 million. It ranks # 4 for being the noisiest city in the world, and is famous for football, beef, soy, wine, and the tango! Amongst the miles of asphalt are giant gomero, palo borracho, and jacaranda trees.

Avenida de neuva de Julio is reputed to be the widest street in the world (South America's Champs Elyse) boasting 16 traffic lanes in each direction with ample pedestrian and park boulevards, and marked with an oblisk. (note the high-rise buildings flank either edge of this street) Avenida Corrientes and Florida are two pedestrian friendly streets famous for restaurants, shopping, and nightlife.

Plaza de Mayo the original main square of Buenos Aires features European architecture Casa Rosada (government equivalent to the White House) Cathedral, City Hall, & National Bank.

Diego Maradona, a porteno widely hailed as one of the greatest football players of all time, coached the Argentine team last night in a World Cup qualifying game with Venezuela to a 4 – 0 win. Football is in the lifeblood of these South American nations.

We stayed at Yira Yira , a quaint guesthouse centrally located and owned by Paz a lovely " porteno" lady (a native of Buenos Aires). Our second floor room had a large balcony, which was over a busy metropolitan street that never sleeps - conversation, music, buses, cars, sirens, and large city bustle droned us to sleep in the warm evenings. Buenos Aires means " good air " and each evening there is a cleansing ocean breeze that removes the smog and pollution to start each day anew.

The world famous cementerio de la Recoleta designed in 1822 is the final resting place for hundreds of famous Argentine's in a maze of granite, marble, and bronze mausoleums. One of those bodies is world famous, Evita Peron, Argentina's first lady led a controversial life loved and hated. From illegitimacy and poor origins she rose to become a famous actor, government minister, and incredible aid supporting families in need. In 1952, being in her early thirties, she died of cancer. Her life was so controversial that it took over 20 years for Argentina as a country to even accept the burial of her body – she toured as much after death as she did during her life.

Plaza San Martin was hosting the world tour of the United Buddy Bears – all 140 countries represented in the United Nations have a bear present except Canada! For more information visit www.buddy-bear.com. Apparently, our bear was broken two years ago and our government has chosen not to replace. Dismayed, and ashamed, with this international travesty we have written the Canadian Government to see if this situation cannot be rectified. Tango music was born in the suburbs of Buenos Aires, notably in the brothels of the poorer suburbs. Its sensual dance moves were not seen as respectable until adopted by the Parisian high society in the 1920s. Tango dancing consists of a variety of styles developed in different regions and eras in response to many cultural elements, venue crowding and clothing fashion.

On to Montevideo, Uruguay (population - 3.5 million.) reported to be South America's most attractive capital city with a high standard of living and strong European influences is noted for leather and beef. It is built an a peninsula extending into the Atlantic Ocean.

On a bleak and a dreary day we visited Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands. The people and their culture, homes, and monuments clearly exhibit British heritage. The Islands hold a strategic naval location in the Atlantic Ocean with a very controversial past. It once was an important deep-water port - a major repair stop for ships traveling the Straights of Magellan before the opening of the Panama Canal. The businesses there were so notorious for price-gouging that damaged ships were sometimes abandoned at Port Stanley. Then a coaling station for the Royal British Navy with ships being based here in both world wars. In 1982 Argentina occupied the islands for about 10 weeks during the Falklands War. Now primarily a growing base for whaling, fishing and tourism in the South Atlantic and Antarctic Oceans. The beaches and land around it were heavily mined and caution needs to be exercised, as many beaches remain active with dangerous minefields. The many penguins that inhabit the coastline are not of sufficient weight to trigger the mines.

As we traveled south air temperatures have now dropped into the mid forties with plenty of snow on the surrounding mountains. Autumn and winter are approaching here in the southern hemisphere. Cape Horn is the southern most part of land associated with South America, at the southern end of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago. It marks the north edge of the Drake Passage, the strait between South America & the Antarctica and the confluence of the Atlantic, Antarctic and Pacific Oceans. Several factors combine to make sailing around Cape Horn one of the most hazardous routes in the world (they say) prevailing winds in latitudes below 40 degrees south blow from west to east around the world almost uninterrupted by land and funneled south by the Andes: icebergs and the narrow Drake Passage; and the area west of the Horn is notorious for rogue waves which can attain heights of up to 100 ft! The Chilean Navy maintains a station on Horn Island, consisting of a residence, utility building, chapel and lighthouse. A short distance from the main station is an albatross sculpture memorial. Antartica a large desolate land mass covered in ice continues to entice travelors exploraton and discovery.

Our southern cruise around the harsh treeless terrain of Cape Horn in South America with visits to the penguin rookeries and Patagonian ports of Puerto Madryn - small non-descript Welsh village growing quickly and located in large wildlife sanctuary; Ushuaia – world's southern most city is a pretty port set against a backdrop of snow where remoteness promoted civilization centered around a prison for serious criminals.

Puerto Arenas has a population of 130,000 of mixed nationalities, blended with history and public squares filled with Latin music. Many of the settlements here retain heritage roots from Europe as groups of settlers were enticed to settle the isolated areas by being given large tracks of free land. Chacabuco is a small isolated rural fishing village where the delicate sweet yet acrid smell of the smoke of an unknown wood used to heat their homes filled the crisp air. The cruise ship visitors easily outnumbered the permanent inhabitants of many of these smaller ports.

Beagle Channel, named after the ship which carried Charles Darwin through this region many years ago, is a narrow channel flanked by receding glaciers due to global warming.

Puerto Montt a fast growing city of German heritage, whose economy is now based upon agriculture, forestry, fishing, and salmon aquaculture in the surrounding islands and fjords. And several kilometres west is the scenic fishing port of Angelmo lined with sidewalk cafes featuring freshly caught seafood, and local vegetable and craft markets. These communities settings are backdropped by snowcapped Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes.

For most of us, born without the immense talents of a Da Vinci, Pablo Neruda, Millard Fuller or Beethoven, the true measure of our lives is not what we achieve – and certainly not what we accumulate – but rather who we are, the number of people we touch, and what we are remembered for, or what is grieved in our absence. Millard Fuller, the founder of Habitat for Humanity, recently passed away with a legacy of having provided more than 300,000 families with housing. Treasure each day as a new adventure in your precious life, avoiding mindlessly moving with the hustling crowd.